We reached the small town of Hsipaw (population 15,000), in Northeastern Myanmar, by a long, bumpy, overnight bus trip. Our seats at the back of the bus were so uncomfortable that Patrick ended up stretching out on the dirty aisle floor just to catch some shuteye. Located in Shan State and surrounded by mountains, it is a popular destination for trekking and visiting small, traditional villages. Unfortunately, February and March are some of the driest and hottest months of the year here, and the time of year when locals use “swidden” (aka slash and burn) farming techniques to ready their fields for next season’s crops. With no rain the air was smoky and dusty, and, as a result, we decided not to do any extended trekking here. Instead, we spent a full day hiking around the town, visiting several traditional villages and an area known as “Little Bagan” because of its many stupa ruins. While the area was very pretty, the friendly locals were the highlight, waving and shouting out a friendly “mingalaba!” greeting as we passed.
From Hsipaw we braved the Burmese rail system, little modernized since the British built it in the late 19th century, and headed to Pyin Oo Lwin. The train ride was one-of-a kind. Our car rocked heavily from side to side for much of the ride, so much so that our backpacks could not stay on the luggage racks above our head. As we approached the Goteik Viaduct, a bridge largely left untouched since it was completed in 1900, we slowed to a crawl in order not to put too much stress on the old bridge. Though long and slow (it took us 10 hours to travel about 85 miles), the ride was pleasant and interesting. At each stop women would come to the train windows with huge trays of food balanced on their heads offering up everything from grilled chicken to baskets of strawberries. On board, Patrick made friends with a Burmese family by taking photos of the daughters and showing them the digital image as they giggled and signaled that they wanted him to take another. At one of the stops their mother bought two baskets of strawberries from a woman on the platform and gave one to each of us, though we tried to decline, she insisted. It was a very sweet gesture and we were touched.
Pyin Oo Lwin, at 3,500 ft elevation, was nice for its cooler temperatures and old British architecture (it was once the summer capital/”hill station” of British Burma). The city is currently home to two military academies and the streets were filled with Burmese soldiers on their day off. We only spent a morning here before moving on to Mandalay but it was a pretty place to pass some time. The streets are mostly unpaved, and horse-drawn carriages kick up dust as they pass. The architecture is predominately British colonial, though not much has been done to preserve the buildings so they have a decidedly run-down look to them. Before leaving we walked through the city’s bustling market, stocking up on several items made from strawberries, the area’s agricultural claim-to-fame, including wine and jam made from the local berries.
Click on the photo below to view our Hsipaw and Pyin Oo Lwin photo album.
From Hsipaw we braved the Burmese rail system, little modernized since the British built it in the late 19th century, and headed to Pyin Oo Lwin. The train ride was one-of-a kind. Our car rocked heavily from side to side for much of the ride, so much so that our backpacks could not stay on the luggage racks above our head. As we approached the Goteik Viaduct, a bridge largely left untouched since it was completed in 1900, we slowed to a crawl in order not to put too much stress on the old bridge. Though long and slow (it took us 10 hours to travel about 85 miles), the ride was pleasant and interesting. At each stop women would come to the train windows with huge trays of food balanced on their heads offering up everything from grilled chicken to baskets of strawberries. On board, Patrick made friends with a Burmese family by taking photos of the daughters and showing them the digital image as they giggled and signaled that they wanted him to take another. At one of the stops their mother bought two baskets of strawberries from a woman on the platform and gave one to each of us, though we tried to decline, she insisted. It was a very sweet gesture and we were touched.
Pyin Oo Lwin, at 3,500 ft elevation, was nice for its cooler temperatures and old British architecture (it was once the summer capital/”hill station” of British Burma). The city is currently home to two military academies and the streets were filled with Burmese soldiers on their day off. We only spent a morning here before moving on to Mandalay but it was a pretty place to pass some time. The streets are mostly unpaved, and horse-drawn carriages kick up dust as they pass. The architecture is predominately British colonial, though not much has been done to preserve the buildings so they have a decidedly run-down look to them. Before leaving we walked through the city’s bustling market, stocking up on several items made from strawberries, the area’s agricultural claim-to-fame, including wine and jam made from the local berries.
Click on the photo below to view our Hsipaw and Pyin Oo Lwin photo album.
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