October 29, 2011

Thessaloniki (September 10-September 12, 2011)

As we moved south and east across Europe, our plan had always been to travel from Bulgaria directly into Turkey. When we realized that we would need to delay our arrival in Istanbul to coincide with the visits of some friends and family, however, the allure of a quick jaunt through neighboring Greece became too great for us to resist.

Our first stop in Greece was Thessaloniki, where we spent a couple of days before flying to the island of Rhodes. Located on the Mediterranean Sea in northern Greece, Thessaloniki was an important Roman, Byzantine, and then Ottoman port. Presently, it is Greece’s second largest city, though it is off the Greek tourist trail and sees far fewer tourists than Greece’s first city, Athens.

We had wonderful weather during our short stay and spent as much time as we could outdoors exploring Thessaloniki. High above the newer parts of the city built along the coast, we followed the Byzantine city walls to the Acropolis and stopped for coffee and brunch at a bustling outdoor cafĂ© that reminded us of San Francisco on a sunny Sunday morning. Meandering downhill through winding streets, we eventually made our way into the newer parts of town and the waterfront. Here, remnants of the city’s past such as the huge palace complex (including the Arch of Galerius and the Rotunda) and the Roman forum (all built by the Roman emperor Galerius in the fourth century), and the White Tower (a 15th century Ottoman fort and prison known for bloody massacres), sit amidst modern pastel apartment buildings and along busy intersections.

Thessalonikians were also taking advantage of the lovely weekend weather. Sidewalk cafes and restaurants were packed with locals and we could hear the roll of the dice and quiet click of people playing backgammon from their balconies. A pedestrian promenade along the waterfront made for a nice stroll and good people watching one evening after kebabs (stuffed with french fries and topped with ketchup and mustard). Other Thessalonikians were getting out for a different reason: the Greek prime minister was in town for a speech about the economy and the protesters were out in full force. Though we arrived too late to witness most of the action, we caught a glimpse of a march through downtown on our first night and later saw the smashed windows of banks and government along the protesters’ route.

Ultimately, we really liked what we saw of Thessaloniki and felt that it is a worthwhile off-the-beaten path destination. Had we known how much we would like this vibrant city, we surely would have allowed for more time here before catching our flight to Rhodes.

Click on the photo below for our Thessaloniki photo album.

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