From Istanbul we took an overnight bus south to the town of Selcuk, jumping off point for a visit to the ruins of Ephesus. Since our bus did not depart until 11:30 p.m., we watched Turkey lose to Germany in a Euro 2012 soccer match while we waited at the main Istanbul bus station. The circus-like atmosphere that erupted at the station during the game, however, did not cease when the game did. In fact, it seemed to increase. The Turks continued to beat on drums, sing, chant, and race around the large, oval-shaped station honking and hanging out the windows waving flags. The bus boarding area was swarmed, fireworks were being shot off, and young men were being picked up by groups of their friends and tossed in the air. After we pushed our way through the crowd and boarded our bus, we discovered that the celebration was for the young Turkish men departing for their mandatory military service, and the mobs of people were friends and family. Eventually, the enthusiastic young men boarded our bus, and the mob surrounded it, rocking it and slapping the sides and windows (the same scene was playing out at the other 30 departing buses). The angry driver had to literally inch his way out of the station. At one point, a crowd blocked the path of the bus, and a man lit a red torch and held it in the air as the group sang the Turkish national anthem. The young soldiers moved to the front of the bus to salute them during the anthem as tearful mothers and girlfriends waved goodbye. When we finally departed the station about 45 minutes late, we both breathed a sigh of relief. We didn’t know at that point, though, that the same scene was about to replay four more times as we stopped at different Istanbul stations to pick up more passengers, ultimately putting us about 2½ hours behind schedule!
Needless to say, we were a little tired when we reached Selcuk, but we found our way to a nice pension in town and, after a long nap, set out to explore the town. Selcuk is relatively small, but has some interesting ruins that we wandered through, including the Basilica of St. John, built by Emperor Justinian and dedicated to the Saint who is said to have visited Ephesus twice, and a Roman aqueduct, now a nesting place for storks. In the afternoon, we stumbled upon the huge Saturday market. For a ridiculously small amount of money, we stocked up on grapes, tomatoes, fresh feta cheese, and olives, which made for an excellent lunch the next day while exploring Ephesus.
Founded in the 10th century BC, Ephesus became an important Roman port, growing to an estimated 250,000 residents during its peak in the first century BC before eventually falling into decline as its harbor silted in. The city was most famous for its Temple of Artemis, dedicated to their goddess of fertility. The temple was the largest in the world at the time, earning it a spot as one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Today, however, one reconstructed column and the foundation are all that remain.
Though only about 20% of Ephesus has been unearthed so far, what exists is certainly impressive. Curetes Way, the main thoroughfare of Ephesus, is lined with the ruins of shops, fountains, baths and latrines, and even a brothel. The beautiful Library of Celsus, now not much more than a façade, was once the world’s third largest library, and the Terraced Houses of the city’s wealthy class have beautifully preserved frescoed walls and mosaic floors (currently carefully being excavated and reassembled by a team of Austrians).
We also visited the Ephesus Museum, in Selcuk, where many of the statues and artifacts found at the site are now located, including several versions of the multi-breasted Artemis herself. Other gems included Priapus, the Phallic God, an infantile head and arm from a 7-meter tall statue of Emperor Domitian, and innumerable statues of Eros.
Click on the photo below to view our Selcuk and Ephesus photo album.
Needless to say, we were a little tired when we reached Selcuk, but we found our way to a nice pension in town and, after a long nap, set out to explore the town. Selcuk is relatively small, but has some interesting ruins that we wandered through, including the Basilica of St. John, built by Emperor Justinian and dedicated to the Saint who is said to have visited Ephesus twice, and a Roman aqueduct, now a nesting place for storks. In the afternoon, we stumbled upon the huge Saturday market. For a ridiculously small amount of money, we stocked up on grapes, tomatoes, fresh feta cheese, and olives, which made for an excellent lunch the next day while exploring Ephesus.
Founded in the 10th century BC, Ephesus became an important Roman port, growing to an estimated 250,000 residents during its peak in the first century BC before eventually falling into decline as its harbor silted in. The city was most famous for its Temple of Artemis, dedicated to their goddess of fertility. The temple was the largest in the world at the time, earning it a spot as one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Today, however, one reconstructed column and the foundation are all that remain.
Though only about 20% of Ephesus has been unearthed so far, what exists is certainly impressive. Curetes Way, the main thoroughfare of Ephesus, is lined with the ruins of shops, fountains, baths and latrines, and even a brothel. The beautiful Library of Celsus, now not much more than a façade, was once the world’s third largest library, and the Terraced Houses of the city’s wealthy class have beautifully preserved frescoed walls and mosaic floors (currently carefully being excavated and reassembled by a team of Austrians).
We also visited the Ephesus Museum, in Selcuk, where many of the statues and artifacts found at the site are now located, including several versions of the multi-breasted Artemis herself. Other gems included Priapus, the Phallic God, an infantile head and arm from a 7-meter tall statue of Emperor Domitian, and innumerable statues of Eros.
Click on the photo below to view our Selcuk and Ephesus photo album.
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