The High Atlas (June 30-July 2, 2011)

Following our visit to Todra Gorge, we spent three days in Marrakesh (more on that in a later post) before heading north by bus to the village of Imlil in the High Atlas Mountains. At an elevation of nearly 6,000 feet, it was a refreshing break from the stifling 110 degree heat of Marrakesh, and with fewer tourists the village was quieter and calmer.

We had hoped to camp in Imlil, but the "camping" option listed in our guidebook turned out to be "pitching a tent on the roof of a hotel." Instead, the owner let us sleep in an unused and unfurnished banquet hall on the top floor (the Moroccan rugs on the floor were more comfortable than roof tiles). There we met Guillaume, an enthusiastic young traveler from France, who talked us into hiking with him part of the way to Toubkal, the highest peak in North Africa (about 13,600 ft), the next day.

First, however, we set out on an afternoon hike to a nearby pass for a great overlook of the mountains and nearby villages. Along the way, we watched a group of boys play soccer in the road (making for a very narrow and steeply inclined pitch), were passed by countless Berber lorries (vans/buses) packed with locals (including those riding on the roof) en route to their distant villages, and had to decline the sales pitch of a moped-mounted fake geode salesmen. At the pass, the views were fantastic and we had the place to ourselves until a group of young boys showed up and became smitten with Nora and repeatedly shouted “I love you!”

The next morning, we hiked south out of town toward Toubkal with Guillaume. The trail follows the Mizane River until the tiny village of Sidi Chamarouch, at which point it climbs steeply, leaving the river behind. Along the way, we met another trekker, Maartin from Holland, who joined us on our ascent.

The views from the trail – down to the Mizane, up to the peaks – were spectacular and the air was crisp and fresh, a stunning contrast to anything we had yet to encounter in this desert country. We hiked with Guillaume and Maartin nearly as far as the Toubkal refuge, where they would spend the night before climbing the final 1,000 meters to the Toubkal summit the following morning. After completing so much of the hike, we were a little sad not to be continuing on to the peak, but still thought that the portion of the trail that we did was well worth it.

Click the photo below for our High Atlas photo album.