On our way from the the Erg Chebbi dunes to Marrakesh we stopped for two days in Tinerhir, a medium-sized town surrounded by barren, rocky landscapes that aren’t that different from something you might find in parts of Arizona. The attraction here was the Todra Gorge and the Todra palmery – a palm-fringed stretch of desert oasis along the Todra River. The town itself was a pleasant place with friendly people and a lively open-air market, though we found we couldn't walk too far without someone trying to offer us a hotel, transportation, or a guide to the Gorge.
The Todra Gorge, which at its best is only about 10 meters wide between 300-meter tall sheer cliff walls, is spectacular. We visited on a Sunday and found that the Gorge is a popular hangout spot for Moroccans who picnicked, played music, and swam throughout the day. We walked through the Gorge and then followed a hiking trail up to a pass that gave us a nice view back toward the Todra River. The hike back was made more dramatic by dark clouds and thunder that threatened rain as we descended (luckily the rain never really developed beyond a few sprinkles). On the hike we encountered a goat herder and his goats, which filled the hillside with their bleats, and a Berber woman in traditional woolen clothes and cheap, broken plastic shoes that didn't fit who was making the climb with her donkey. We both felt a little silly, by comparison, in our hiking shoes and quick-dry fabrics.
The lush palmeries line the Todra River as you head to the Gorge. The contrast between the intense green vegetation of these oases and the barren mountainous landscape that surrounds them is stunning. There are also a number of small villages with amazing “ksour” and “kasbahs”, fortified mud and clay structures. We found that the condition of these structures varied widely, with some abandoned and eroding back into the river, and some still occupied by families.
The Todra Gorge, which at its best is only about 10 meters wide between 300-meter tall sheer cliff walls, is spectacular. We visited on a Sunday and found that the Gorge is a popular hangout spot for Moroccans who picnicked, played music, and swam throughout the day. We walked through the Gorge and then followed a hiking trail up to a pass that gave us a nice view back toward the Todra River. The hike back was made more dramatic by dark clouds and thunder that threatened rain as we descended (luckily the rain never really developed beyond a few sprinkles). On the hike we encountered a goat herder and his goats, which filled the hillside with their bleats, and a Berber woman in traditional woolen clothes and cheap, broken plastic shoes that didn't fit who was making the climb with her donkey. We both felt a little silly, by comparison, in our hiking shoes and quick-dry fabrics.
After descending the trail and walking back out of the Gorge and into the palmeries, we decided to walk the 15 km back into town and enjoy the beautiful views along the way; however, after about 10 km, we were a little hot and a little thirsty, and gave in to the temptation to hitchhike a ride from a local back to town. Despite the language barrier, we shared a nice ride and our driver even pulled over at a scenic overlook to let us soak in the view.
Click the photo below for our Tinerhir and Todra Gorge photo album.
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