Kerala is famed for its backwaters, a system of interconnected lakes, rivers, canals, and lagoons set behind the Arabian Sea coast. We explored these backwaters twice: once on a guided canoe trip from Kollam and once on an overnight houseboat from Alleppey. Each promised a different aspect of the backwaters: the canoe trip provided access to tiny canals and closer views of village life in the backwaters while the houseboat trip would cover more territory and offer a serene evening on the waters away from town.
In Kollam, our canoe trip took us to Munroe Island to explore its narrow canal system that is the primary transportation network for the people of the island. We cruised through villages, ducked our heads under low-lying bridges, and admired the stunning scenery, though we learned very little about the place since our “guides” didn’t tell us anything about where we were or what we were seeing, and weren’t eager to answer our questions. Instead, we made two mildly informative stops to observe locals making coir (coconut-fiber rope) and constructing canoes.
The most popular way to explore the backwaters, though, is by going on an overnight trip on a houseboat designed like a traditional rice barge (kettuvallam). We went down to the Alleppey docks early in the morning, chartered one of the hundreds of available boats (the number of boats has risen exponentially over the last 10 years) and set out with our crew of two. The backwaters here are beautiful, with still waters and lush vegetation, though our relatively large boat was confined to Vembanad Lake and the larger canals. After cruising across the lake, we asked to tour a smaller canal or visit a village. Instead, despite our multiple protestations, we stopped at a “market,” where the crew (interested in a commission) pressured us to buy “fresh” seafood, candy, beer, and even cigarettes. We then cruised through some pretty canals until we stopped for the evening just around the corner from the docks where our journey began (and not out on the lake or on a secluded canal as we expected). While our crew was making dinner, we set out to explore a small nearby village. Along the way we met an Australian couple similarly biding their time and they invited us back to their houseboat for beers (they had the foresight to bring a case). Just when we realized it had gotten dark and we weren’t sure of the way back to our boat, our captain came aboard. It seems that four foreigners stood out in this small village and we were easy to find. Neither of us had been told we had to stop playing and come home for dinner in 20 years! The next morning we putted aimlessly around the lake for an hour, but still got back so early that we had to eat breakfast while docked before being hustled off the boat.
Ultimately, we enjoyed our backwaters experiences, but we couldn’t help but feel a little disappointed. We felt that the Munroe Island canoe trip could have been much more informative. In Alleppey, “houseboat tourism” has grown without regulation and there are too many operators, many only interested in cutting corners or making money, and not focused on providing the peaceful backwater experience that made the trips so popular.
Click on the photo below for our Kerala Backwaters photo album.
In Kollam, our canoe trip took us to Munroe Island to explore its narrow canal system that is the primary transportation network for the people of the island. We cruised through villages, ducked our heads under low-lying bridges, and admired the stunning scenery, though we learned very little about the place since our “guides” didn’t tell us anything about where we were or what we were seeing, and weren’t eager to answer our questions. Instead, we made two mildly informative stops to observe locals making coir (coconut-fiber rope) and constructing canoes.
The most popular way to explore the backwaters, though, is by going on an overnight trip on a houseboat designed like a traditional rice barge (kettuvallam). We went down to the Alleppey docks early in the morning, chartered one of the hundreds of available boats (the number of boats has risen exponentially over the last 10 years) and set out with our crew of two. The backwaters here are beautiful, with still waters and lush vegetation, though our relatively large boat was confined to Vembanad Lake and the larger canals. After cruising across the lake, we asked to tour a smaller canal or visit a village. Instead, despite our multiple protestations, we stopped at a “market,” where the crew (interested in a commission) pressured us to buy “fresh” seafood, candy, beer, and even cigarettes. We then cruised through some pretty canals until we stopped for the evening just around the corner from the docks where our journey began (and not out on the lake or on a secluded canal as we expected). While our crew was making dinner, we set out to explore a small nearby village. Along the way we met an Australian couple similarly biding their time and they invited us back to their houseboat for beers (they had the foresight to bring a case). Just when we realized it had gotten dark and we weren’t sure of the way back to our boat, our captain came aboard. It seems that four foreigners stood out in this small village and we were easy to find. Neither of us had been told we had to stop playing and come home for dinner in 20 years! The next morning we putted aimlessly around the lake for an hour, but still got back so early that we had to eat breakfast while docked before being hustled off the boat.
Ultimately, we enjoyed our backwaters experiences, but we couldn’t help but feel a little disappointed. We felt that the Munroe Island canoe trip could have been much more informative. In Alleppey, “houseboat tourism” has grown without regulation and there are too many operators, many only interested in cutting corners or making money, and not focused on providing the peaceful backwater experience that made the trips so popular.
Click on the photo below for our Kerala Backwaters photo album.
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