Mumbai (known as Bombay until 1995) is India’s first city. With some 20 million residents, it is the largest city in India (and fourth largest in the world); the commercial, financial, and entertainment capital of the country; and home to some of the most expensive real estate in the world as well as some of the poorest slums.
Until the late-eighteenth century, Mumbai consisted of seven islands. A series of land “reclamation” projects over the next hundred years or so merged these seven islands into one. At 233 square miles, this island city is enormous (ten times the size of Manhattan), and with only four days to explore, we only saw a fraction of it. What we did see, though, we thoroughly enjoyed. The streets were clean and the traffic orderly (compared to Delhi, anyway), the food and shopping were amazing, the weather was tropical, and the mixed British and Indian architecture made for a setting unlike anything we’d seen before.
We spent most of our time exploring the touristy southern part of the city, where the remnants of British Imperialism are at their best. Beautiful brick Victorian buildings line the wide, palm tree-lined boulevards (the University of Mumbai and Victoria Terminus Station were our favorites) while the Gateway of India, built to commemorate the 1911 visit of King George V, dominates the harbor. Even the taxis, black and yellow 1960’s Fiats, contribute to the European vibe here.
From the colonial part of town, we walked to Back Bay where we strolled northward along Marine Drive, a long promenade lined with art deco apartment buildings, and enjoyed the postcard views of the “Queen’s Necklace.” At the north end of Marine Drive we watched the sunset at Chowpatty Beach, a popular gathering spot for the citizens of Mumbai and a great place to watch the locals gather to eat and play. Here we sampled Mumbai’s famous street food, including bhelpuri (fried dough, puffed rice, lentils, and chutney) and pav bhaji (a thick potato-based curry served with a buttered roll).
Wandering around one day, we stumbled across a very different side of Mumbai: a shanty town of fisherman, within view of the Gateway of India and only a few minute walk from the swanky Taj Mahal Palace hotel. The beach here was covered in old fishing nets, ancient boats, some sort of submarine, and all manner of washed up debris. This mini-slum is only a small blip in a city where at least 50 percent of its residents are estimated to live in slums and shantytowns. We didn’t venture into any of the city’s largest slums but we were still well aware of this plight: begging street children and homeless families were ubiquitous throughout the city.
We were also fortunate enough to meet up with Ruchil one more time when he came to Mumbai for his visa renewal. We made our way to the ‘central suburbs’ of Mumbai, specifically to the Juhu Beach neighborhood, which is Mumbai’s version of Malibu, a celebrity-filled, beachside suburb. We strolled along the beach, stuffed our bellies with a delicious thali, and spotted a few homes of the Bollywood elite before saying goodbye one last time.
Click on the photo below for our Mumbai photo album.
Until the late-eighteenth century, Mumbai consisted of seven islands. A series of land “reclamation” projects over the next hundred years or so merged these seven islands into one. At 233 square miles, this island city is enormous (ten times the size of Manhattan), and with only four days to explore, we only saw a fraction of it. What we did see, though, we thoroughly enjoyed. The streets were clean and the traffic orderly (compared to Delhi, anyway), the food and shopping were amazing, the weather was tropical, and the mixed British and Indian architecture made for a setting unlike anything we’d seen before.
We spent most of our time exploring the touristy southern part of the city, where the remnants of British Imperialism are at their best. Beautiful brick Victorian buildings line the wide, palm tree-lined boulevards (the University of Mumbai and Victoria Terminus Station were our favorites) while the Gateway of India, built to commemorate the 1911 visit of King George V, dominates the harbor. Even the taxis, black and yellow 1960’s Fiats, contribute to the European vibe here.
From the colonial part of town, we walked to Back Bay where we strolled northward along Marine Drive, a long promenade lined with art deco apartment buildings, and enjoyed the postcard views of the “Queen’s Necklace.” At the north end of Marine Drive we watched the sunset at Chowpatty Beach, a popular gathering spot for the citizens of Mumbai and a great place to watch the locals gather to eat and play. Here we sampled Mumbai’s famous street food, including bhelpuri (fried dough, puffed rice, lentils, and chutney) and pav bhaji (a thick potato-based curry served with a buttered roll).
Wandering around one day, we stumbled across a very different side of Mumbai: a shanty town of fisherman, within view of the Gateway of India and only a few minute walk from the swanky Taj Mahal Palace hotel. The beach here was covered in old fishing nets, ancient boats, some sort of submarine, and all manner of washed up debris. This mini-slum is only a small blip in a city where at least 50 percent of its residents are estimated to live in slums and shantytowns. We didn’t venture into any of the city’s largest slums but we were still well aware of this plight: begging street children and homeless families were ubiquitous throughout the city.
We were also fortunate enough to meet up with Ruchil one more time when he came to Mumbai for his visa renewal. We made our way to the ‘central suburbs’ of Mumbai, specifically to the Juhu Beach neighborhood, which is Mumbai’s version of Malibu, a celebrity-filled, beachside suburb. We strolled along the beach, stuffed our bellies with a delicious thali, and spotted a few homes of the Bollywood elite before saying goodbye one last time.
Click on the photo below for our Mumbai photo album.
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